Petroglyphs and Ringing Rocks

"Little Lara" sailing on Bahia Concepcion

Peggy's Post: These are a few of my favorite things --

• listening to a violin concert (thanks John!) on the beach on a moonlit night with a bonfire, potluck appetizers, and good friends
• watching a gorgeous sunrise sneak over the mountains and wash the beaches in its shimmering glow
• listening each morning to “Amazing Grace” played on bagpipes before the Cruiser's Net weather broadcast (thanks Geary!)
• chasing giant Angelfish though mazes in the reefs while snorkeling
• watching Jay spearfish then eating delicious grilled fish or cerviche
• being amazed by stingrays and dolphins' display of aerial acrobatics
• bio-luminescence exploding in the water at night as fish swim around "Little Lara"
• exploring deserted beaches and finding beautiful sea shells
• hitching hiking to the closest town and discovering out how many people we can squeeze into a car (the record is 8!)
• learning about the interesting history of each village and town we visit
• attending church in Ensenada, Cabo San Lucas, La Paz, and Loreto (meetings - all in Spanish!)
• listening to the wind calm down at night so we can have a peaceful nights sleep
• finding "old" friends in new anchorage when we arrive … and meeting "new" friends there
• being with with my sweetheart (of 36 years) and enjoying these wonderful adventures together!

San Juanico Anchorage

Jay's Post: We left Puerto Escondido February 26, 2015 northward bound. We very much enjoyed nearby Loreto with its plaza and historic buildings, but the weather was beginning to warm up, encouraging us to move on. Because the waters have been cold (69 degrees), we have been unwilling to do much snorkeling. We are hopeful this will change soon. Our first stop was Puerto Ballandra on Isla Carmen. We had been here before, but we liked it so much, we decided to return. Last time we anchored here we snagged an underwater tree that had probably been washed down the nearby arroyo with the last hurricane. We had a hard time pulling the anchor up and were successful only after motoring “Little Lara” into shallower waters, dragging the tree with us. There, we were able to snag the tree with the boat hook and slip the anchor from underneath it. Having learned our lesson, we were extra careful where we anchored this time.

From Ballandra we motor-sailed 25 miles north to Caleta San Juanico. There are no nearby towns, no

Ranchito garden in San Juanico

stores, but plenty of RVs camped along the beach. We enjoyed getting to know them during the week we stayed here. Interestingly, most of them are Canadians—about three Canadians for every American. They come to Mexico each year to escape the harsh winters. There are also some small Ranchitos in the area, and we went to visit the families who live out in this desert wilderness tending gardens and raising goats. We were particularly impresses with their gardens. Using goat manure as fertilizer, they plant vegetables in raised beds, which they irrigate using water from a nearby communal well. This water is hauled in by truck and stored in cisterns. The organic vegetables plants were beautiful: large, leafy and healthy looking, unlike the vegetables we grow in our garden back in Redding. While in San Juanico, we went on several hikes, had bonfires on the beach with other cruisers, and hunted for “Apache Tears”. We picked up a bagful of them scattered along the roads and up the arroyos.

Some of the Apache Tears

Apache tears are smooth, glassy stones of natural volcanic obsidian. The stones generally range from pea to golf ball size. They are black in color formed when lava flows cooled rapidly. Because they can be chipped to an amazing sharpness, they were used by the Indians to make spears and arrow heads. Their name comes from a legend dating back to the late 1800's when the United States fought the Apache Indians in Arizona. When the warriors were defeated and killed, their families wept bitterly for their loss of their loved ones, and with each tear shed, it turned into stone upon hitting the ground.

Calm anchorage, Santispac, Bahia Concepcion

We left San Juanico March 9^th for Bahia Concepcion. Boaters, RVers, campers, kayakers, and fishermen come to Bahia Concepcion from all around the world because of the beautiful bays, clear waters and sandy beaches. Here we met Americans, Canadians, Mexicans, South Africans, Austrians, etc. The bay lies 14 miles south of Mulege along Mexico Highway 1. Due to its protection, the ocean swells and northerly winds are blocked, making for calmer waters. There are numerous anchorages all within an eight mile radius, with exotic names like: Santispac, Escondida, El Burro, Coyote, Santa Barbara, and Requeson.

Insect Petroglyph

We stayed long enough to visit them all. While here we went on hikes, caught rides into Mulege, made new friends, and enjoyed the beaches. It was in Bahia Concepcion that the waters finally warmed up enough (75 degrees) for us to go snorkeling and spearfishing without freezing. While hiking we came across many petroglyphs and “bell rocks”. These petroglyphs were carved by the Indians that once inhabited this area up to 3,000 years ago. We were able to easily identify carvings of fish, insects, cacti and trees. The bell rocks were interspersed among the petroglyphs. These fascinating rocks are reddish brown in color and the size of small boulders. Because of their high iron content, when struck, they resonate like a bell (see the video below). We enjoyed Bahia Concepcion so much, we stayed here for two weeks, leaving on March 23^rd for Santa Rosalia.

Note: Click on the pictures to enlarge. Comments and questions are always encouraged!

Whales, Whales, Everywhere Whales!

Jay's Post: One of the questions we are frequently asked is if we see whales as we sail. The answer is yes, predominately three types: Blue Whales, Humpback Whales and Gray Whales.

Blue Whales are found usually in the open oceans. In the Pacific ocean they migrate from South Chukchi Sea in the Pacific Northwest to Panama. In the waters of Mexico they mate and give birth to their calves. Their diet consists mainly of krill, a tiny shrimp-like animal. They each consume 2-4 tons of krill per day. When feeding they travel at 1-4 miles per hour, but can achieve bursts of speed up to 30 miles per hour. Blue whales are the largest known animal on the planet reaching 105 feet in length and weighing up to 196 tons. They are blue-gray in color. When they spout they shoot a vertical spray of water up to 40 feet into the air.

Humpback Whales are found primarily along the coast from the Bering Sea to Southern Mexico. In the waters of Mexico they mate and give birth to their calves. Their diet consists mainly of krill and small schooling fish. They are known to concentrate their food by forming a “bubble curtain”, created by swimming in circles while releasing air bubbles beneath the water's surface. Humpback Whales often “sing”, vocalizing a long series of repeated phrases. They can grow up to 53 feet in length and are mostly black in color with white undersides. They often leap clear out of the water and may slap their flukes on the water's surface.

Gray Whales are found primarily in shallow coastal waters from the Bering Sea to Baja California, Mexico. In the waters of Mexico they mate and to give birth to their calves. When born, the calves can swim immediately, but depend on their mothers for a diet of milk for at least 6 months. The adult's diet consists mainly of gammarid and amphipods which they grub off the sea floor. They are gray in color and can grow up to 46 feet in length. When spouting they do not shoot out a distinctive spout of water.

Peggy's Post: Fortunately, we are able to report that we have only seen Blue Whales from a distance. It is our goal to stay as far way from these “monsters of the deep” as possible. Frequently we see Humpback whales spouting as we move along the coast. We can see their spouts from a great distance as they shoot up into the air. A few times we have come upon their “bubble curtains” as they feed on fish they were rounding up. During these times they would either see us or hear us coming and would submerge as we sailed closer leaving only the disturbed water in their wake. Once, as we were leaving Abreojos, Mexico, a Humpback Whale breached right in front of “Little Lara” less than 100 feet away, startling us both. “Little Lara” rocked from side to side by the waves left behind. Sadly, we did not have our camera nearby, so we missed a great photo opportunity.

Though we have seen whales both in the Pacific and in the Sea of Cortez I convinced Jay into taking a whale watching tour. I had heard from some other cruisers that it was a new and completely different experience. So when we had the rental car, we drove back over to the Pacific side of Baja California to Lopez Mateo, near Bahia Magdalena, where the Gray Whales come to calf. We hired a panga (a small fishing boat) and were lucky to be the only passengers aboard, so we had a fantastic view of the spouting Gray Whales. This was very exciting as we got closer and saw their baby calves. We followed them along as they surfaced and then dove. As these whales disappeared below the surface of the water, our panga driver would spot another whale in the distance, and off we would roar over the waves. The best part was toward the end of our tour when we met the friendliest whale. She would come up to the side of the boat...and we were only an arms reach from the water. I swear, she wanted to be petted and she loved it! And we weren't feeding them so it wasn't food bringing them to us. She would go to one side of the boat, dive under, then come up on the other side for another head rub. Then she nudged her calf over for some attention from us. I was so surprised at how soft their bodies were. It was an incredible, once in a lifetime experience! You have to see the videos above and below to gain an appreciation of what we were able to experience. Enjoy!

Spanish Missions

Plaza in Loreto

Post: We had been sailing through the islands of the Sea of Cortez for almost a month when we arrived at Puerto Escondido (“Hidden Harbor”) located fourteen miles south of Loreto, Mexico. It was time to get off our twenty-four foot sailboat “Little Lara” and do a different kind of traveling—by car. Up until now we had seen only the coastline of Baja California. Now we wanted to see what the interior of this peninsula looked like. So we rented a car and started our inland journey traveling at sixty miles per hour verses our typical 4-5 mile per hour. As we drove we noticed that every town or city we visited, like most Mexican towns, had a central plaza and a Catholic church. We were interested to learn of the historic and cultural contributions these old missions played in developing the area.

Mision Nuestra Senora de Loreto

The first mission in the Californias was founded by Juan Maria Salvatierra in the city of Loreto in 1697. As the area grew in population it served as the base for California’s exploration and the expansion of the Catholic mission system throughout the Baja and western United States region. Thus, Mision Nuestra Senora de Loreto is known as the “Mother and Head of the California Missions” and was the capital of all Spanish California. We were told that at one time even the early Mormon settlers had to travel here to record official government documents (i.e. marriages, births, deaths, etc.). The still functioning church sits in the center of the plaza surrounded by small shops selling souvenirs, clothes and food.

Mision San Francisco Xavier

Twenty-two miles southwest of Loreto is a small village of thatched-roofed, adobe houses named San Javier. Just getting to the village was an adventure in itself. We were told that the road was good - “all paved”. What they forgot to mention was the washed out portion up the steep winding canyon. We could tell the rushing waters from the last hurricane took out the road and was powerful enough to roll car sized boulders down the canyon. In a half dozen other places we had to ford rivers crossing over the “paved road”, and skirt goats wandering down the center of the road. But our little rental car made it to San Javier in one piece. We were entranced with the cobble stone streets and the clean orderly town. Here is located the best preserved Jesuit Mission we found: Mision San Francisco Xavier de Vigge-Biaundo. In 1701 Juan de Ugarte arrived in the area after traveling from Mexico City. The entire building, from foundation to vaulted ceiling was constructed using stone quarried from nearby Arroyo de Santio Domingo. No two side windows are identical. The two bells in the church tower are dated 1761 and 1830, respectively. The altars within were brought here from Mexico City by boat and burro in the mid 18^th century. In the center alter stands a statue of San Javier.

Mision Santa Rosalia de Mulege

In 1770 the Mision Santa Rosalia de Mulege was constructed inthe town of Mulege after the original building was destroyed in a flood. Constructed of native river stone the building stands on the bluffs over looking the town and the palm treed lined Rio Santa Rosalia. What we found striking in this church was the unusual statue of the “Resurrected Christ” ascending to heaven. The town of Mulege is bisected by a river (one of the few flowing rivers we have seen in Baja) which flooded the town in the recent hurricane and the damage is still very apparent.

Mulege's “Resurrected Christ” statue

Iglesia Santa Barbara de Santa Rosalia

A novelty in the Baja is Iglesia Santa Barbara de Santa Rosalia. Though not an old building compared to the missions noted above, it is unusual because it is a prefabricated, steel walled church designed by French architect Alexandre Gustave Effiel in 1884. Effiel is best know for designing the locks of the Panama Canal, the Statue of Liberty, and Paris' Effiel Tower. Originally the church was built in 1887 and exhibited in Paris at the 1889 World Exposition. Effiel took first place for the building's modular design. It was purchased in 1897 by Compania El Boleo, a French copper mining company and shipped to Santa Rosalia then reassembled so the mine workers living in the area would have a place to worship. While we were visiting the plaza we met a group of teenage girls practicing their drill routine for a marching competition. They were very interested in practicing their English with some willing Americans. One 12 year old spoke quite well because she visits her cousins in the San Francisco Bay area every summer. Her English was much better than our Spanish! We also made sure we visited the French Bakery that was originally established in the 1800s!

As always, every village, town or city we visited in Baja California the people were friendly and extremely helpful. It was delightful to get to know them and visit a part of the peninsula we normally would not see on a sailboat. We hope all is well with you and want you to know how much we appreciate our family and friends, whom we miss very much. Be safe and fair winds wherever your travels may take you.

Plaza in San Javier

Islands, Vistas & Sunsets (Part 2)

Peggy's Post: We left San Evaristo January 26, 2015 to explore Isla San Jose which is an hour sail back across Canal De San Jose. We had heard that there was a lot to explore on the island and we were glad that we didn't pass it by. Our first anchorage was at Punta Salinas. Years ago there was a salt mine here and it was interesting to see the abandoned buildings and equipment.

Remains of an old Bulldozer

Cab of an old Ford Truck

The salt pans are still evident where rectangular areas were flooded with sea water and then allowed to evaporate leaving the salt behind to be processed. I especially loved the three mile long white sandy beach covered with thousands and thousands of sea shells. Also we found an interesting collection of shoes in one of the abandoned buildings.  This raised all kinds of speculations on our part: were they left here by former inhabitants? Did they wash up on the beach? Or is this the resting place for all lost soles?

Lost Soles

The next day we moved the boat to the end of the island five miles further south to Bahia Amortajada to explore the mangroves and lagoon. Here we put the outboard motor on the dinghy (this involves me being on the boat leaning over the stern railing while lowering the motor down to Jay who is standing in the inflatable dinghy as it rides up and down on the waves then maneuvering it onto the transom of the dinghy without dropping it into the water. We have a line tied to the boat and the outboard motor as a safety precaution, just in case!) After carefully motoring over the shallows of the lagoon we found our way into a corridor lined on both sides by mangrove trees. Here are dozens of narrow waterways meandering through the mangroves creating a maze. I was relieved to discover we could backtrack to the main channel by following the air bubbles left in the water by the motor ... similar to leaving breadcrumbs on a trail. After exploring the many channels we hurried back to “Little Lara” because the wind was picking up and the tide was going out.

Entrance to the Mangroves

We ended up back on “Little Lara” with an uphill slog (up wind into the waves) back to a safe anchorage. We stayed at Punta Salinas for a couple of days waiting for safe conditions to cross the channel back to San Evaristo for provisions and water.

On January 30^th we sailed to our next destination, Agua Verde, which is one of our most favorite anchorages so far (even though it involved sailing in the rain to get there). It is more more tropical than the desert beaches we previously visited. There are lots of palm trees, white beaches, a quaint village, herds of goats (we tried the goat cheese they make here and found that we really like it!), pangas (local fishing boats) and very friendly people.

Agua Verde Anchorage

The only things that interrupted the solitary dreamlike quality of this very protected anchorage was the day after our arrival a mini-cruise ship and several other sailboats arrived … one sailboat anchoring a mere 30 feet in front of us. Jay had to ask them nicely to please pull up their anchor and move further away. We knew that when the wind shifted or the tides changed they would swing on their anchor rode and hit “Little Lara”. We did appreciate the “UnCruise” ship after they kindly shared some ice with us so we could continue keeping the groceries in our icebox cold.

Yiks, they are anchored close!

Though we loved Agua Verde we set sail for Puerto Escondido on February 3rd. This was a 23 mile sail, which took us five hours to complete as there was no wind. We ended up motoring the entire way. Plus, it has almost been a month since we last last communicated with friends and family, and we knew there was internet service here. Puerto Escondido is one of Baja's most protected anchorages and it is here everyone heads when hurricanes approach the region during the summer months. It is almost completely landlocked except for a 200 foot wide entrance channel. The inner bay can hold over 100 boats. Here we met many of the boats we had become friends with as we sailed down from California and up through the Sea of Cortez. We plan staying for several days so we can travel inland by car, visiting many of the larger cities like Loreto, Santa Roslia and Ciudad Constitution.  We also want to attend Church in Loreto, where there is a "Casa de Oracion" (House of Prayer, i.e. Dependent Branch.)

Loreto Dependent Branch

Below is a short video clip of the anchorage in Agua Verde:

Islands, Vistas & Sunsets (Part 1)

Fun in the sun or do we just look tired?

Jay's Post: We left La Paz, Mexico on January 8, 2015 heading north for the islands. Along the way we stopped to enjoy several of the more popular anchorages that lie just a few miles outside of La Paz. One of our favorite stops was Bahia Falsa, just five miles away. We stayed here for several days enjoying the bird and marine life. While here we saw frigates, pelicans, and blue footed boobies, plus sand bass, angelfish, yellowtail and mullet. We also spent time exploring the shoreline by dinghy. While here, Peggy caught one fish and one bird, and I caught three fish.

"I caught a fish, I caught a ..."

Mushroom Rock and "Little Lara"

We had to stop and anchor in Bahia Pichilinque even though it was just a short four miles from Bahia Falsa. This area is known for its fine white sandy beaches and beautiful clear turquoise waters. It was here that we caught a ride back into La Paz so we could attend Church on Sunday. While we were waiting for the bus at the bus stop, a “Policia Federal” stopped to ask us if we needed any help. When we explained we were headed into town to attend church, he offered us a ride. Along the way we talked about Mexico, California, sailboats, families and the Church. We were able to catch a bus ride back to the anchorage after Church services were over.

We crossed the Canal de San Lorenzo on January 14^th headed for the first big island north of La Paz: Isla Espititu Santos. This island is 18 miles from La Paz and is part of the National Marine Park System. It is know for its colorful striated layers of pink, ivory, brown and black rocks.

Striated Layered Mountains

According to the Nature Conservancy this area is the breeding grounds for whales, dolphins, sea lions and turtles. It is a migratory corridor for 210 bird species, and is the home for 31 species of whales and dolphins, 500 species of fish and 4,848 species of marine invertebrates.

White Sandy Beaches of San Gabriel

We founds several beautiful anchorages amongst the possible twenty or more places we could have stopped. The three coves we stopped in all had exotic names -- Bahia San Gabriel, Puerto Ballena, and El Mezteno, as well as white sandy beaches, clear turquoise water and thick green mangroves. We found them all to be quiet secluded anchorages, often times with us being the only boat there. In these anchorages we enjoyed exploring the shoreline in the dinghy, motoring over the reefs looking at the marine life, hiking up steep arroyos over rocks and boulders, and walking through the salt flats.

Sunset at Caleta Partida

The next island we visited was Isla Partida on January 17th, 21 miles north of La Paz. Our first and most favorite anchorage on the island was Caleta Partida. This cove was originally the crater of a large extinct volcano. Over thousand s of years the crater was eroded away and the sea flowed in and filled it. We stayed here several days enjoying the beauty that surrounded us on almost all sides. There were six boats anchored here with us, a record. It was here that we traded with a local fisherman for ice and fish. Further north we stopped at Ensenada Grande to fish, snorkel, explore and hike. At low tide sea caves are exposed that dot the shore line. We were able to swim around, into and through these caves as we saw amazing marine life. We saw many unusual fish including eels, cornetfish, trumpetfish, scorpionfish, balloonfish, manterays, etc.

Sea Lions of Los Islotes

Leaving Isla Partida on January 20^th we sailed by Los Islotes, which is famous for its sea lion rookery. As we slowly motored by the island the male sea lions would bark at us while the female sea lions would dive into the water to swim around “Little Lara”.

Crossing Canal De San Jose we sailed for Isla San Francisco. This is a favorite cruising destination and we soon found ourselves anchored with eleven other boats – almost an entire community! This area is known for its large crescent shaped bay and white broken shell beach. The sunsets here are absolutely gorgeous as the sun descends behind the rugged Sierra De La Gigantas on the Baja peninsula silhouetting this jagged rocky mountain range. Then with no nearby city lights to influence the sky, the stars begin to appear to illuminate the night sky. With billions and billions of stars that appear so close you can reach up and touch them, it is possible to pick out some old familiar constellations like Ursa Major, Orion, Gemini, Taurus, Cassiopeia, as well as some new ones like the Southern Cross. While at Isla San Francisco we again went snorkeling over the reefs. This time, however, we took the Hawaiian Sling (a long spear with a 'rubber-band') with us and were able to spear a fish -- take note Jon. The rest of the fish were either too fast or we were too slow. As Peggy says, “Practice, practice, practice!”

San Evaristo Anchorage

Mexican Cell Tower ???

Because of deteriorating weather conditions we decided to leave

Isla San Francisco earlier than planned and sail over to the Baja peninsula and anchored at San Evaristo. This is a quiet little fishing village of maybe twenty families. Here we found a well protected bay and were able to go ashore to buy food, water and ice. We hiked up the hills behind the village and discovered we could get some very limited cellphone service. This afforded us the opportunity to text family to let them know we were alive and well. We spent several days at San Evaristo waiting on weather and visiting with new found friends.

Musings on Marinas

Sea Turtle statue 

Peggy's Post: This is the first time we have stayed more than just a few days in a marina. We have been here in La Paz at Marina Palmira for 3 weeks, and it has been interesting to discover marinas are miniature communities. There are cruisers who are the old timers who have lived here full time for years. There are snowbirds who have come every winter for decades.  There are those, like us, who are here for just a few weeks. Finally, there are transients, who stop just long enough to purchase fuel, provisions, and water before leaving to cross the Sea of Cortez for Mazatlan or Puerto Vallarta (a 48 hour sail).  Everyone does their best to make newcomers feel welcome. 

Marina Palmira with breakwater in background

There are expensive marinas similar to country clubs with every amenity imaginable. Then there marinas that provide the basics like the one we are presently in. There are also cruisers who anchor out in the bay choosing to have no services. This last group described us in the past, except on weekends when we would go into marinas so we could go to church. So lately it has been fun and different to belong to a "neighborhood" of boats.

View of the boardwalk to downtown-about a mile

The best part of sailing is meeting new people.  We have enjoyed going out to dinner, always a great way to get to know people and try the local cuisine. Trading dinner invitations on each other's boat is also fun, but seating is tight on “Little Lara”! Since most sailboats are larger than ours, new friends often invite us to their boat, while we bring the food.

Every morning at 8:00 AM we listen to the “La Paz Cruiser's Net” on our marine radio. The host asks if there are any emergencies, any new boats to the area or any boats that are leaving. Then the mic is open for announcements of activities from the different marinas. For example, during the holidays there were announcements for a Christmas pot luck, donations of food staples for local families, request for volunteers to fill Christmas bags with toys and candy for needy children, a farmer's market, a musical jam session, a yoga class, Mexican train dominoes, a folk singer performance, a celestial navigation class, and a swap meet. Enough activities to keep us busy every day! 

Maybe one of the boats is missing its mast?
Hurricane damage.

Then the radio mic is open for people to tell about items they have for “swap or trade”. The host always is careful to inform listeners that in Mexico it is illegal to sell anything, unless you are a Mexican citizen or have a business license, so you can only trade things. It is always interesting what people have to swap. For instance, today someone had a mast with sail and roller furling... we were curious what happened to the boat that formally went with the mast!

The marina also has a 'Cruiser's Lounge' which basically is a room with tables, chairs and hundreds of books.  It has a TV, a coffee pot and the most used item: a wireless WiFi router.  So the lounge is used a lot as people log on to check the sailing weather, email, stateside news and update blogs -- like us.

The Pearl of La Paz on the Malecon

We have managed to stay out of the gossip but that too is part of every community! We have also enjoyed going to Church on a weekly basis and getting to know the members.  They have been very friendly and accepting of us. 

The RS (and departing missionary) in La Paz

We have loved being part of this new 'family' and will be sad to say goodbye, but we are looking forward to continuing our adventures exploring the waters teeming with sea life and the deserted islands of the Sea of Cortez.

Selfie from the top of the mountain overlooking the bay.

Feliz Navidad

Wishing you a very Merry Christmas
 from La Paz, Mexico

Christmas is the biggest holiday of the year in Mexico and is rich in traditions. It is celebrated in a variety of ways, starting in early December when homes and businesses are decorated with poinsettias, which are called “noche buenas” from the Spanish phrase “good night” (Mexico is the origin of the poinsettia). From December 16 to 24 there are a series of procession called Las Posadas (from the Spanish word “inn”). The posada is a recreation of Mary and Josephs' searching for a "room at the inn." Two children are selected to play the rolls of each Mary and Joseph, accompanying them in their travels is a choir of small children who knock on three or more doors asking for lodging for the weary couple. By previous arrangement, there are no takers. At the last house the procession is invited in. There all the children enjoy a festive pinata party.

Christmas Pinata

The Mexican interpretation of the pinata rests on the tradition of man's struggle against temptation. The seven points on the pinata represent the seven deadly sins. The pot represents evil and temptations. The person with the stick is blindfolded to represent faith. The turning, the singing and the shouting represent the disorientation that temptation creates. As the participant beats the pinata, it is supposed to represent the struggle against temptation and evil. When the pinata breaks, the treats inside represents the rewards of keeping the faith.

Rosca de Reyes

Many Mexicans open their Christmas gifts on Christmas Eve (“Noche Buena”) as well as have a large family dinner that may last all night. There are some families, however, that prefer to wait and open their Christmas gifts on January 6^th, “Día de los Reyes” (Day of the Kings). It is on this day many believe the wise men arrived in Bethlehem bearing gifts for the Christ Child. Dia del los Reyes includes eating of the “Rosca de Reyes”, a ring shaped sweetbread, similar to a bunt cake containing small bits of fruit and candy. One of the special traditions in eating this cake is a small plastic doll representing the baby Jesus hidden inside. The one receiving the doll is responsible for hosting a party on and making the tamales for the “Fiesta de la Candelaria” (Day of the Candles), which is held on February 2nd.

Santa's Workshop where the elves
are counting down the days 

Fiesta de la Candelaria falls forty days after Christmas, and is celebrated as the feast of the “Purification of the Virgin” or as the “Presentation of the Lord”. According to Jewish law a woman was considered unclean for 40 days after giving birth so it was customary to bring the new born baby to the temple after that period of time had passed. Thus, Mexicans believe Jesus would have been taken to the temple on this day to be blessed. It is called Day of the Candles because Mexicans take candles to the church on this day to be blessed. Tamales are the preferred food of the day. It should be noted that February 2nd also marks the mid-way point between the winter solstice and spring equinox. This may be a vestige of an old pagan tradition given that this day has long been thought of as predictor of the future weather conditions. In the United States, for example, February 2nd is celebrated as “Groundhog Day”.

In keeping with Mexican tradition we will spend Christmas with family. Thus, Monday, December

22^nd we will travel to Utah by plane to be with our children. It is interesting to note that it took us 2 ½ months to travel the 1,607 miles to La Paz. It will takes us 3 hours to fly from Mexico to Salt Lake City. After the holidays we will return to La Paz to travel further north to explore the islands in the Sea of Cortez. Until then, we on “Little Lara” are wishing you and your family a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.  We pray for the Lord's continued blessing on each of you this coming year.

Remember, Jesus is the gift of Christmas!