See What You Sea

Black Point Anchorage

You will recall, a massive winter storm crisscrossed the United States the week of January 6, 2017 dropping 15-20 inches of rain and snow in its wake. This storm caused flooding and power outages, while blocking roadways and stalling traffic all up and down the East coast. The storm eventually passed offshore, only to arrive here in the Bahamas.  Though we did not experience the rains and snow levels like they did in the States, we did receive gale force winds of 30-35 knots. Having waited at Staniel Cay nine days for this storm to pass, and the winds and waves to subside, we finally decided to sail 16 miles south to Black Point Settlement on Great Guana Cay. Our original plans were to head north from Staniel Cay, but the forecast called for several more days of high winds. We had already spent three days confined aboard "Little Lara" and we were more than anxious to get ashore. Black Point Settlement provided us that opportunity.  The settlement at Black Point is a gem! It has a great harbor with plenty of room in the anchorage. But, the most attractive thing about this area is the people - friendly, outgoing, and focused on being of service to cruisers. We also enjoyed the white sandy beaches with their rocky cliffs and blow holes as we waited for the storm to pass.  This week we are expecting light winds which will be great for heading north to see all the wonderful islands that we missed on the trip down. We plan to travel to Nassau, the Berry Islands, Bimini and then back to Florida in February. Again, we hope you enjoy the pictures and video.

Waves crashing on shore

We found a lot of sea glass on this beach

This arch is underwater at high tide

One of the shells I found here

When Pigs Swim, You Say!

Another Beautiful Bahamian Sunset

We spent a week enjoying the Exuma Cays Sea and Land Park before we left for Staniel Cay.  Staniel Cay lies about 25 miles south of Warderwick Wells.  The island is approximately two square miles. Staniel Cay has a small Bahamian village on the western shore with a population of less than 110. The village is composed of homes, a church, a post office, a library, three small retail stores and marine supply shops.  The population caters primarily to tourists.  This area is primarily known for Thunderball Grotto, swimming pigs and pristine beaches.

Thunderball Grotto

Thunderball Grotto Sea-life

Inside Thunderball Grotto

In 1965, Thunderball Grotto, a limestone cave situated on the western coast of Staniel Cay, was the setting of the James Bond film "Thunderball". It was from this film the name Thunderball was given to the grotto. The island was also used as a filming location for a scene in the (1983) James Bond movie "Never Say Never Again".  Thunderball grotto, which is a natural limestone cavern that can be entered from underwater. Light enters through a vaulted ceiling and a variety of sea-life swim in the water inside the cavern, including the purple parrotfish, yellowtail snappers, angelfish and sergeant majors.  While at Staniel Cay we took an opportunity to snorkel the grotto.  It was eerie swimming underwater to enter one of the openings and gain access to the interior of the cavern. Once inside we found the sea-life to be amazing and the light bouncing of the cavern walls extraordinarily beautiful.  Coming from above and filtering through the watery openings from below, the sun light rays appear blue, turquoise, pink and green.  We spent about an hour inside the grotto feeding the fish corn and exploring all of the cracks, crevices and openings.   

The Famous Swimming Pigs

We were anchored at Big Major Cay during our stay at Staniel Cay, an uninhabited island a short dinghy ride away from Staniel Cay . This is the home of the famous Bahama Swimming Pigs.  There are approximately 20 pigs and piglets on Big Major Cay. They are not native to the island and popular lore suggests that they were dropped off by a group of sailors who planned to return and cook them, or that there was a nearby shipwreck and the pigs swam to shore.

Pig Beach

Personally, we believe they were left here in more recent times by local Bahamians tourist guides who wanted to bring visitors to the island to feed them. What a sweet deal!  Think about it, because the pigs live on the island where there is plenty of fresh water and they are constantly fed by tourists, the owners can come back during the holiday season and pick out a nice fat free pig when they are planning a pig roast for friends and family.  We were told that some of the pigs in fact do periodically disappear, but it is claimed they are stolen by other Bahamians for relocation to other islands to similarly attract tourists to those areas. After all, we were informed, these are special "swimming pigs" and pigs do not swim naturally! They must be bred to do so. Thus, you can not just drop off any old domestic pig on an uninhabited island and expect them to swim out and greet tourists for a free meal. But, we think pigs are pretty smart animals and if they are hungry...  well you decide which story you like best.

Pirate's Beach

We also enjoyed the novelty of "Pirate's Beach".  While at Big Majors Cay we were anchored just off this beach. There we spent numerous hours looking at the many interesting items left behind by passing cruisers. In the picture above, hopefully you will be able to identify not only the chairs, tables, signs, and flags, but also the skulls and cross bones.

Our anchorage at Big Major
The calm before the storm!

We stayed nine days in the Staniel Cay area waiting for weather to go north.  A good sailing day never presented itself, so we decided to head south instead, but that is a topic for a future blog.  Until then, we hope you have fair winds and calm seas.

Check out those storm clouds!

Fair Winds

Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park

We left Rock Sound, Eleuthra on December 28, 2016 to sail the 45 miles to Warderwick Wells, Exuma.  Here lies the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park.  Since we began planning our trip to the Bahamas last year the park has been one of our "must see" destinations.  The park is considered to be the most pristine and possibly the most beautiful area in all of the Exumas.  On the north end of the island is the 70 foot high Boo Boo Hill and on the southern end is Pirate's Lair.   Boo Boo Hill is where cruiser leave driftwood plaques carved with their boat name.

Cruiser's Driftwood Plaques

Can You Spot "Little Lara's" Plaque?

Boo Boo Hill is said to be haunted and late, on overcast nights, when the moon is full, you can hear a congregation of missionaries singing hymns.  These early English missionaries were shipwrecked on the island and eventually perished. Also, nearby are blowholes from which seawater shoots up high into the air with an eerie "whooshing sound", when the wind and waves are just right.

Pirate's Lair

Pirate's Lair lies a short walk inland down a conch shell lined path with palm trees on either side.  At the end of the path is a small opening with a fresh water well off to one side.   It is rumored that in this area pirates would gather when they came ashore to discuss pillaging  and plundering and do whatever pirates in the 1700's did on their days off.

Warderwick Wells North Anchorage
Are you able to identify "Little Lara"?

Designated as a replenishment area (this means no taking of plants, animals or marine life)  Exuma Cay Land and Sea Park encompasses 15 major cays over 176 square miles.  You can only get here by boat. The best way for us to describe the week we spent in the park hiking, snorkeling and exploring is through pictures. Enjoy!

Whale Bones' Display

Peggy claiming the trail to Beryl's Beach

Snorkeling off Warderwick Wells

Wow, is that a Mermaid?

Do you see the fish hiding in the sponge?

Cool purple Sea Fan

Glass Windows, Baths, Navy and Blue Holes

One of the things we enjoy about cruising on a sailboat in the Bahamas is the unusual sights we see as we travel from island to island. Four examples from the Eleuthera include:

Glass Window Bridge

(1)  The Glass Window Bridge is one of Eleuthera's more popular attractions.  It is one of nature's true wonders. It is one of the few places on earth where you can compare the rich blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean on one side of the road and the calm turquoise-green waters of the Exuma Sound on the other side, separated by a strip of land just 30 feet wide. The land here is high on both sides, falling away abruptly to nearly sea level, almost dividing the island in two. A bridge on its topside connects the northern and southern points of Eleuthera by a paved road. The bridge is man-made, which took the place of a natural rock bridge that was destroyed in years past by a hurricane.  We found it both fascinating and beautiful, but we were careful as we made our way out onto the bridge knowing that rogue waves have been know to unexpectedly sweep cars off the bridge, down the cliffs, and out to sea.

The Queen's Baths

(2) The Queen’s Baths or the Hot Tubs, is located a short distance south of the Glass Window Bridge on the rugged Atlantic side of Eleuthera.  These naturally formed pools were carved over the centuries by waves crashing over the rocks.  We found the pools filled with shells and small sea life that are washed in from the Atlantic Ocean.  Once settled, the crystal clear water is warmed by the sun, creating a bath like temperature tidal pool that’s perfect for soaking.  We arrived in the early morning hours of the day, so the waters felt cool, and not conducive to soaking. However, we did find the pools of water interesting and the nearby rock formations fascinatingly rugged.

Peggy in the Brig

(3) The history of the United States Naval Facility on Eleuthera began in November 1950 when Western Electric built a Sound Surveillance System to track Soviet submarines in the Atlantic Ocean. Originally, the only buildings on the site were a wooden Western Electric Laboratory, a wooden generator building, and a tent that was the communications center. By December 1950, five Quonset huts were constructed. Then in February 1952, the Navy became interested in setting up a guided missile range and tracking program on the island -- think Cuban Missile Crisis. Between 1952 and 1953, a SeaBee crew set up five “green huts,” so a Galley, a Mess Deck, and an Administration Building shortly followed. The communications equipment was also upgraded. In September of 1957, the base was officially opened. 

Navy Enlisted Men's Barracks

By then, the facility was much larger accommodating 150 officers and enlisted men. The base was designated the United States Naval Facility, Eleuthera, or NAVFAC. During this time, the Eleuthera Auxilliary Air Force Base (AAFB) began operations and was the location of the United States Air Force Eastern Test Range (ETR), or Atlantic Missile Range. The AAFB was used for long-range monitoring of rocket and guided missile launches, controlled targets, drones, satellites, and lunar probes for the Navy, Air Force, and Army -- all "hush, hush. top secret stuff".  On March 31, 1980, the base was decommissioned by the United States government because they were unable to agree to favorable lease renewal terms for the land the base was located on with the Bahamian government. And so it sits, quietly going decrepit for all of these years, just waiting for Peggy and me to show up to rummage through and explore these old buildings.

Rock Sound Ocean Hole

(4) The world-renowned blue hole is an inland ocean hole located on the southern end of Rock

Rock Sound Ocean Hole

Sound, Eleuthera. People often drink and bathe in its brackish water, as it is rumored to have healing powers. A seemingly bottomless 600 foot deep natural limestone formation, it is said to have been explored by Jacques Cousteau. Ocean Hole is filled with tropical fish and turtles who sidle up and greeted us as we fed them bread and swam around. 

But, we continually looked down into the darkness wondering what was lurking far below us.  The fish that live in Ocean Hole were caught and put there by local residents. You can also see a variety of local bird species nesting in the surrounding hardwood trees.


We found Eleuthera to be an interesting place to visit and are glad we were able to spend time here.

Until net time, fair winds

Check out this sign we found posted at the Base's Chapel