Wyoming Mormon Historical Sites

1856 Wyoming Mormon Trail

This past week the senior missionary couples were given a special treat: two instructors from the Church Education System took us to Mormon Historical Sites in Wyoming, explained their significance in Church history and their relationship to the Willie and Martin Handcart Companies. Though there were a total of ten handcart companies that made the trek from Iowa City to the Great Salt Lake basin, the Willie and Martin Handcart companies stand out in American history because more people died in these two groups than in any other overland group. But, this significance goes well beyond the sheer number of deaths. The travails of these two groups of pioneers serve as a symbol of how physical challenges and hardships can serve as a sanctifying experience. As missionaries we are often asked why these pioneers willingly suffered what they suffered. The answer is clearly their faith in God, their faith in latter-day prophets, their faith in temple ordinances, and their faith in promises that families can live together eternally. Briefly, their journeys were as follows:

Traveling separately, the Willie and Martin Handcart Companies crossed Iowa to arrive in Florence, Nebraska where they re-provisioned with a 60-day supply of flour. This was to be enough food to last them 522 miles, where they were to once again re-provision at Fort Laramie. After Fort Laramie, there were no reliable sources of supplies until they reached Fort Bridger, another 400 miles away. Arriving at Fort Laramie they found very little supplies available for purchase. With reduced rations the companies pressed onward.

Reshaw Bridge over the Sweetwater River

At this point, they were traveling on less than three-fourths a pound of flour per person per day. The people tried to supplement their starvation diets with anything they could scavenge: roots, bark, cactus, leaves, cowhide. Arriving at the last crossing of the Platte River near present day Casper, Wyoming the two groups continued westward following the Sweetwater River. By this time the companies were two weeks apart and both were worn down by hunger and fatigue. Plus, crossing the Platte River had sapped what little strength these pioneers had left. Their death rate began to increase daily. As their journey continued, the nights grew colder. On October 19, 1856 the companies encountered an early snowstorm. A few days later, the Martin Company arrived at Bessemer Bend where they sought shelter from the continuing storm, while the Willie Company was similarly stalled at the Sixth Crossing of the Sweetwater River.

Bessemer Bend

Sixth Crossing of the Sweetwater River

After meeting the Express Riders sent from Salt Lake, both companies received hope necessary to continue westward even though they had little or no food. The Martin Company passed Willow Spring, Greasewood Creek, Independence Rock, and Devil's Gate before reaching Martin's Cove. Meanwhile, the Willie Company was traveling up an over Rocky Ridge, crossing Strawberry Creek before they arrived at Rock Creek Hollow.

Willow Spring

Greasewood Creek

Martin's Cove

Unable to move forward, the Martin Company spent five days in the Cove waiting for the weather to improve. During this time the weather was very severe. The biting cold was relentless. The thermometer read 11 degrees below zero. Flour rations were cut to less than four ounces. The people began to freeze on account of inactivity. It has been estimated that as many as 50 people died during these days.

Ascending Rocky Ridge

Rock Creek Hallow

Meanwhile, the Willie Company spent several days camped at Rock Creek Hollow suffering the same weather conditions as the Martin Company. While camped there, fifteen people died and were buried in a common shallow grave.

Eventually, with the arrival of more supply wagons, both groups were able to reach Salt Lake where they were taken into people's homes. There these pioneers were nursed back to health, although many suffered from the effects of their ordeal the rest of their lives. Francis Webster, decades later said, “Was I sorry I chose to come by handcart? No. Neither then nor one moment of my life since. The price we paid to become acquainted with God was a privilege to pay, and I am thankful that I was privileged to come in the Martin Handcart Company.” To visit many of the historic sites where these faithful pioneers stayed and wrote about in their journals are considered sacred, hallowed ground is truly amazing. At each of these locations there is a special spirit of which touches one's soul.

May we each enjoy and appreciate the blessings in our lives,
Elder and Sister Bowden 

The Rocky Ridge of Life

Standing by the Sweetwater River
with Devil's Gate in the Background 

M. Russel Ballard said, "We cannot begin to understand the journeys made by those who laid the foundation of this dispensation until we understand their spiritual underpinnings. Once we make that

connection, however, we will begin to see how their journeys parallel our own. There are lessons for us in every footstep they took–lessons of love, courage, commitment, devotion, endurance, and, most of all, faith. Handcarts were heavily laden with faith–faith in God, faith in the restoration of His Church through the Prophet Joseph Smith, and faith that God knew where they were going and that He would see them through. We all face rocky ridges, with the wind in our face and winter coming on too soon. Always there is a Devil’s Gate, which will swing open to lure us in. Occasionally we reach the top of one summit in life, as the pioneers did, only to see more mountain peaks ahead, higher and more challenging than the one we have just traversed. And how will

we feel then, as we stand shoulder to shoulder with the great pioneers of Church history? How will they feel about us? Will they see faith in our footsteps? I believe they will. We will learn, as did our pioneer ancestors, that it is only in faith–real faith, whole souled, tested and tried–that we will find safety and confidence as we walk our own perilous pathways through life. We are all bound together–19th and 20th century pioneers and more–in our great journey to follow the Lord Jesus Christ and to allow His atoning sacrifice to work its miracle in our lives. While we

all can appreciate the footsteps of faith walked by Joseph Smith and his followers from Palmyra to Carthage Jail and across the Great Plains, we should ever stand in reverential awe as we contemplate the path trod by the Master. His faithful footsteps to Gethsemane and to Calvary rescued all of us and opened the way for us to return to our heavenly home. Joy will fill our hearts when we fully come to know the eternal significance of the greatest rescue–the rescue of the family of God by the Lord Jesus Christ. For it is through Him that we have promise of eternal life. Our faith in the Lord Jesus Christ is the source of spiritual power that will give you and me the assurance that we have nothing to fear from the Journey."

Rocky Ridge

As the pioneers crossed central Wyoming, they found a much needed respite from the high harsh desert conditions when they arrived at the Sweetwater River. However, before long, they began the arduous climb up and over the treacherous Rocky Ridge. Rocky Ridge came by its name naturally enough. This rugged, boulder-strewn path stretches for about 12 miles, across two high ridge shelfs, crossing Strawberry Creek. At its summit, the trail ascends about 700 feet in two miles. The rock cuts left here by the emigrant wagon wheels are among the most dramatic trail remnants remaining on Wyoming's westward emigrant trails.

James and Joseph Kirkwood
by Del Parson

One such pioneer story that tugs at our hearts in the story of Kirkwood family.  James Kirkwood was an 11-year-old boy with tremendous courage.  He traveled from Scotland with his mother and 3 brothers.  His father died a few years prior to their leaving.  Traveling with the Willie Handcart Company, his main responsibility was to watch over his four-year-old brother, Joseph Smith Kirkwood.  One morning they left their camp near the Sweetwater riverto make a 15-mile climb in a blinding snowstorm over Rocky Ridge.  It was windy and bitterly cold.  They became separated from their mother in the storm. Four-year-old Joseph’s shoes had worn out and his feet were numb.  He fell down and started to cry.  James tried to encourage him, but Joseph couldn’t take another step.  James carried him on his shoulders, then in his arms, and then on his shoulders.  They were one of the last into the camp that night, walking for 27 hours.  Finally they saw the fire burning ahead and knew they were close.  With determination, he had faithfully carried out his task and saved his brother.  James was so exhausted from the cold, starvation, and from carrying his little brother, that he sat down next to the fire and never spoke another word.  He died the next morning and was buried with twelve others.

Pioneer Grave Marker
Note James Kirkwood's Name

Elder and Sister Bowden

Assorted Thoughts and Random Pictures

With all the recent snow we have been receiving here in Wyoming, there is frequently a problem with short horses:

Fortunately, at Sixth Crossing we have no short horses, but we have a variety of wildlife we normally do not often see in California including:

Deer

Moose

Antelope

Buffalo Chips?

Pheasants

Prairie Dogs

Horned Toads

Another thing we have really enjoyed here in Wyoming are the beautiful sunsets:

As you know, this weekend was Mother's Day.  To celebrate, the Elders honored their wives by presenting them with a card, flowers, and songs.

Elders waiting with roses for their Sweethearts

Sister Bowden wearing her Mother's Day Lei

We hope and pray all is well with you and wish mothers everywhere a Happy Mother's Day!

Martin's Cove with "Devil's Gate" in the Background

Elder and Sister Bowden

Meanwhile in Wyoming

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These past few days we have received numerous emails and text messages from family and friends expounding on the warm, beautiful spring weather they have been experiencing.  We are told the trees are budding out and the daffodils are in full bloom.  Spring has also come to Wyoming, though weather and topography in Wyoming have more contrast than in most other states. Surface elevations range from the summit of Gannett Peak in the Wind River Mountains, at 13,804 feet, to the Belle Fourche River Valley in the state’s northeast corner, at 3,125 feet. Here at Sixth Crossing we are at 6,550 feet.  

Because Wyoming is located deep in the interior of the North American continent, far from any moderating influence of the ocean it has long cold winters, cool springs, but pleasant summers. We are anxious for summer to begin.  A typical Wyoming spring day will start out bright and sunny. Clouds will appear on the western horizon about noon, and thunderheads will develop by mid-afternoon. Snow will then begin to fall in the late afternoon covering the landscape in late afternoon and into the night. There can be severe storms with wind and hail, especially here at Sixth Crossing.  The average daytime temperatures are 45-55 degrees with nighttime temperatures of 25-35 degrees.  During the week we hike the trails trying to familiarize ourselves with them, and continue working on benches, campsites and handcarts when the weather permits. If the weather fails to cooperate, we spend our days indoors working on projects and learning pioneer stories.

Staining Handcart Wheels

With the recent snowfall we decided it would be extra special to hike the trails in the snow to get a feel for what the Willie Handcart Company endured when they came through this area during the winter of 1856. There was 12 inches of snow on the ground when we made our trek.  When the Willie Handcart Company was here there was about the same amount of snow on the ground, however the temperature was well below zero degrees!  

Handcarts waiting for trekkers

Wagon near our trailer

Trekking where the Willie Handcart Company Trekked

Typically the missionaries from Sixth Crossing drive the 60 miles to Martin's Cove Sundays for Church services, however, the past two weeks we have been snowed in, and unable to make the trip. So we held services here, with the other 19 missionary couples. This Sunday, May 1st, however, the weather was nice enough for us to make the trip.  It was nice to be able to finally meet with the other forty missionaries couples.  Perhaps, spring really is here.  But, as they say in Wyoming, "If you do not like the weather in Wyoming, wait five minutes!"

Elder and Sister Bowden

Spring Wyoming