Sunday, December 25, 2016

Its Christmas Time in the Bahamas

A Bahamian Nativity Scene

Christmas in the Bahamas feels different to us this year.  While our kids send us pictures of Christmas trees and gently falling snow, we are experiencing 80 degree weather (coupled with 80% humidity),
"Little Lara's"
Christmas Wreath

sunny skies and brilliant turquoise
Main Street
Green Turtle Cay
waters. To make it feel more like Christmas Peggy decorated "Little Lara" with a handmade wreath adding sea shells and pine cones for ornaments, then strung battery operated lights around the cabin.  In the Bahamas we founds some Christmas decorations around the homes and stores, but not like back at home.  And, though we miss the excitement generated by grandchildren shaking presents in anticipation of Christmas Day, we do not  miss the commercialization so often associated with Christmas in the States. Another plus of being in the Bahamas for Christmas this year is socializing with other cruisers and meeting the many friendly Bahamians.  We admit it does not feel like Christmas without  family and friends during this Holiday Season! So, we wish you a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year where ever you are.  We love you and miss you all.

Opening Christmas Presents Christmas Day

Typical Bahama Beach

Enjoying a day at the Beach

Fair Winds

Sunday, December 18, 2016

Off to Spanish Wells

Route from Little Harbor Cut
 to Spanish Wells

Leaving Hope Town, Abaco we motor-sailed 77 miles south to Spanish Wells, Eleuthera.  Along the way we stopped off at Sandy Cay to go exploring and snorkeling.  Unfortunately the wind began to pick up and the rain began to fall as a squall passed through the area, so rather than getting into the water, we collected water, which we used to wash down "Little Lara" and launder some clothes.  Once the squall had past, we hoisted the anchor and made our way toward Lynyard Cay near Little Harbor, where we anchored for the night.  Knowing that the next leg of our passage would be a long one we were in bed early to be up by 1:00 am.  Our plan was to leave late enough to make slack tide at Little Harbor Cut and yet early enough to arrive in Spanish Wells during the daylight.  With waves breaking on the reefs all around us, we shot through the pass just at slack tide.  Our timing could not have been more perfect! Soon we were past "The Boilers" (this reef's name says it all) and out into open waters of Northeast Providence Channel.  This channel is 13,000 feet deep so our depth meter soon registered "---".  We had not made a night passage since we left Florida and crossed the Gulf Stream.  On this trip found the seas calm and the moon big and bright.  Once again we enjoyed the night skies as we stood three hour watches throughout the night: one of us minding the helm while the other slept.

Sunrise Northeast Providence Channel

Just as the sun was coming up, Peggy shouted the customary, "Land Oh". Soon we found ourselves rounding Egg Island, passing Royal Island and Meeks Patch, before dropping anchor just off Spanish Wells harbor.

Spanish Wells Harbor

Spanish Wells is a small town (population 1,500) located on St. George's Cay, Eleuthera.  The first colonists were adventurers from Bermuda, who suffered shipwreck on a reef, known as the "Devil's Backbone" off Eleuthera in 1647. After living in a cave known as "Preacher's Cave", they ended up at Spanish Wells. Among others, later groups of settlers were Crown loyalists, who left the United States after the American Revolutionary War. Historically, the island was used as a last stop for Spanish ships returning to Europe, where these ships refilled their water supply from wells created for this purpose - thus the English name of the settlement: Spanish Wells.

Spanish Wells

The next day we went inside the harbor to take a mooring ball just off the town near some mud flats that show themselves at low tide.  As we have found on other islands in the Bahamas the people here are very friendly and helpful, and we find new cruising friends wherever we go. We are excited to be in the Eleuthera, but will miss the Abacos.

Fair Winds and Calm Seas

"Little Lara" on her Mooring Ball




Sunday, December 11, 2016

Da Bes Yet, Mon

The Great Abaco Island

We spent this past week sailing around the hub of the Sea of Abaco visiting many of the islands. Marsh Harbor is the largest town in the Abacos we visited, with a population of 5,300. It is big enough to warrant a stop light and all the noise, commotion and traffic that goes with it.

Marsh Harbor
Government Complex
 
But, the benefits of Marsh Harbor include the largest grocery store in the Abacos. This means a greater variety of food, but not necessarily cheaper prices.  For example, milk costs $4.83 a gallon, cereal $6.00 - 9.00 a box, yogurt $1.50 for 6 oz, cheese $8.00 per pound, sliced turkey $12.00 per pound, and the most shocking was paper towels at $29.70 for 8 rolls!  On some of the other islands we visited, apples were going for $2.00 each and bread for $6.00 per loaf.  So while everything here is very expensive, we can't complain to much because the beaches and the people make it all worthwhile! We spent two days in Marsh Harbor doing laundry, going to the bank, filling prescriptions, mailing letters and going to the hardware store.




Man-O-War Cay
"Little Lara" is moored
right about there ...
Soon we had all our errands completed and we were off to Man-O-War Cay. This tiny island of about 300 people is 2.5 miles long and lies just four miles from Marsh Harbor. It is known for its boat building history, which dates back hundreds of years. We enjoyed the canvas shop, woodcarving store, narrow streets, well manicured lawns and the marvelous beaches. We found the people to be very conservative, very religious and very friendly.  There are few restaurants here, but there are four churches.




"The Low Place", Man-O-War Cay
Note, the Sea of Abaco is to the left and the Atlantic Ocean is to the right

Lots of work to get this coconut opened!


Knowing that there was nasty weather coming, we decided to leave Man-O-War Cay and sail four
miles to Hope Town on Elbow Cay. Elbow Cay is another one of the many small cays in the dog-legged-shaped barrier islands near the mainland of Great Abaco Island. At around 4.5 miles long and 1,100 yards wide, Elbow Cay is home to wonderful people, great food, beautiful beaches, coconuts, breathtaking sunsets, and an amazing light house. The famous Elbow Reef Lighthouse is probably the most recognizable landmark in all of the Abacos.  It is one of the last manual lighthouses in the
world.  The lamp burns pressurized kerosene oil with a wick and mantle.  The Fresnel lenses concentrate the mantle’s light into a beam directed straight towards the horizon.  The lenses and burner equipment, weighing 8,000 lbs, float in a circular lubricated tub.  This reduces friction so that the 700 lbs of weight, when wound up to the top of the tower by hand, smoothly rotates the 4-ton apparatus once every 15 seconds.  The lighthouse keeper on duty must wind up the weights every 2 hours in order for the red and white candy-striped lighthouse to be seen from 17 miles away.

Hope Town Harbor



Streets of Hope Town

In  1863, England decided, to build a lighthouse at Hope Town to steer ships clear of the extensive “Elbow Reef”.  Despite protests made by wreckers (salvagers), the lighthouse was completed in
Elbow Cay Lighthouse
1864.   In 1996, for economic reasons, the Port Department was prompted to automate the hand-wound kerosene–burning lighthouse in the Bahamas.  The Lighthouse Preservation Society (the non-profit historical and educational society dedicated to its preservation) convinced the government to reconsider, as long as the Society would provide the Port Department with the parts they needed that were no longer available through their previous supplier.  Since then, the Society has been using mantles from the Coleman Company (manufacturer of Outdoor Equipment).  Today, the Elbow Reef Lighthouse is still sending out light, rated at 325,000 candlepower, with the same light source it acquired in 1863.  As we waited for the weather to improve, we enjoyed seeing the lighthouse lit up for the Christmas season with Christmas lights and its bright, rotating "star" on top.

Attending Church Meetings at "Summer Magic"
 
We loved walking through Hope Town, admiring the beautiful flowers, narrow streets and quaint homes. We noticed that the houses in Hope Town do not have street addresses, but names, like boats. We attended LDS Church in Hope Town, in the beautiful home of Chris and Lisa. They were kind enough to invite us to worship with them. We truly appreciated being able to attend Sacrament Meeting with them.  We loved everything about Hope Town.  Thus far Hope Town is "Da Bes Yet, Mon".

Who is at the helm?


"Where to now, babe?"

Fair Winds



Sunday, December 4, 2016

Dat Way To Da Beach, Mon

"Beach Dat Way"


We only spent at day at Spanish Cay before pushing off for Green Turtle Cay.  We motored most of
New Plymouth, Green Turtle Cay
the way due to light winds, but fortunately this harbor is a mere 16 miles away from Spanish Cay.  We were particularly interested in going to Green Turtle Cay because we stopped there in 2001 with our children.  We took a mooring ball in Black Sound, provided by Donny's Marina.  We were surprised at how much the island had changed and how much it remained the same.  The town, New Plymouth, is bigger now, and they have cell service, but the same Easter-egg-colored houses, post office and narrow streets still exist.  

 
Relaxing at the New Plymouth
Post Office

There are more cars and trucks on the island now, but the locals still prefer to drive golf carts around town.  We found the people to be very friendly, offering us golf cart rides into town and making sure all our needs were met.  Donny was exceptionally nice, answering our many questions and recommending sites to visit around the island.   We remained at Green Turtle Cay five days attending community events, visiting the museum and meeting the locals while waiting to round Whale Cay.


Rounding Whale Cay

Whale Cay has a reputation of being the most difficult and treacherous passage in the Abacos.  In certain weather conditions it is impossible to traverse this area.  This is because a shallow bank extends out from this small island, and when the wind is blowing out of the north the waves kick-up a "raging sea".  On these days it is impossible to get around the island.  When we made the passage, however, the wind was out of the South and the waves were fairly calm.





Leah at Baker's Bay in 2001
Once around Whale Cay we stopped at Baker's Bay to celebrate our passage and enjoy brunch.  Baker's Bay is another area that held fond memories for us and our 2001 trip, but this is one of those areas that had changed drastically,  almost to the point of non-recognition. In 2001 this was an abandoned cruise ship destination: Treasure Islands.  Our children enjoyed playing on the beach and exploring the ruins -- tiki huts, amphitheater, empty shops, etc.  Today the beach is restricted and high-end homes have replaced the ruins.  Somethings never change, while others change so much they will never be the same.  Time marches on!


Exploring Treasure Islands Ruins in 2001

Until next time, Fair winds.

Sand Dollar Beach, Green Turtle Cay

Monday, November 28, 2016

Island Bound, Mon

Sailing to the Bahamas

We finally made it! We are in the Bahamas!  On Monday, November 21st after checking the weather we saw there was a good window for a night crossing from Lake Worth, Florida to Great Sale Cay. So we decided to go for it.  We moved “Little Lara” to the city docks at West Palm Beach where we had been anchored and filled the water tanks, deflated and stored the dinghy on the foredeck, rigged the safety jacklines, put on our life jackets and tethers, and pushed off making the 2:15 PM Flagler Bridge opening.  Our plan was to leave early enough that even if the waves in the Gulf Stream slowed our crossing, we would still make it to Great Sale Cay (pronounced “Key”) before sundown.

Our Route: Lake Worth to the Bahamas

By 3:00 PM we were motoring out the Lake Worth inlet in fairly calm seas and light winds from the northeast.  As predicted when we got into the Gulf Stream the waves were 3-4 feet with an occasional 5 feet, but they were not steep because the wind was only 5-10 knots.  It was fun sailing for about 6 hours when the wind died and we started the motor.  Just at dusk, Jay caught a 20 inch “Little Tunny” and filleted it by flashlight in a rolling cockpit.

Sunset Offshore -- West Palm Beach, Florida

During the night we enjoyed a beautiful clear sky with stars so bright you felt like you could reach up and touch them, plus a spectacular light show as several large meteors darted across the horizon. We each took three hour watches and were actually able to catch a bit of sleep in between since the waves weren't too uncomfortable.  Once we were well into the Gulf Stream, we dodged two cruise ships and two tankers.  The cruise ships look like moving cities with their brights lights lighting up the night skies.

We crossed the Bahama Banks just south of Memory Rock. It was no problem in the dark, but a little disconcerting when the waters shallowed up from 2,500 to 32 then 16 feet all within a distance of a half mile.  We had calms seas on the banks and made great time averaging 4.7 knots (5.4 mph) arriving at Great Sale Cay by noon. We joined one other boat in the anchorage, dropping the anchor in gorgeous turquoise waters. We celebrated our crossing by taking a much needed nap!

Anchored at Great Sale Cay
(note the clear turquoise colored waters)

We stayed several days at Great Sale Cay waiting for the winds to shift. Initially, we left for Spanish Cay on Thanksgiving Day, but after three hours of motoring into steep, confused seas we turned around and sailed back to our anchorage electing to postpone Thanksgiving until we could arrive at Spanish Cay and clear customs. The day after Thanksgiving we left much earlier to allow time to get to the marina before dark.  Along the way we found ourselves surrounded by a huge school of flying fish. They were splashing, jumping and flying as we raced one another eastward. It was thrilling even though we lost!  The most exciting moment was being welcomed to the Bahamas by our very efficient and helpful Customs lady at Spanish Cay.  We had officially arrived!

Its Official!

After getting Little Lara settled in her slip at the marina (we were the only boat there), we were admiring the myriads of fish swimming in the ultra clear waters around the pilings when we were amazed to see a huge manta ray lying on the sea floor and a small Black-tip shark swimming nearby.  At this point we decided against snorkeling at the nearby reef and sunken plane!  It was wonderful to get off the boat after four days, and walk along the powdery-white sandy beaches.  We stretched out under a tree to enjoy the warm sun and beautiful scenery… did we mention the temperature was in the lower-80's?  As we explored the rest of Spanish Cay we found that this private island also boasts condos for rent, an airstrip, a store, a restaurant, a swimming pool, a laundry, and best of all - hot showers!  The staff were all very friendly and exceptionally helpful. What a great place to celebrate Thanksgiving!

Little Lara in Spanish Cay Marina

Until next time, Fair Winds



Sunday, November 20, 2016

All for Peanuts


We left Stuart, Florida on November 15th and headed south 42 miles for West Palm Beach.  Along the way we stopped at Hobe Sound, North Lake Worth and Peanut Island.  Peanut Island was created in 1918 with material dredged from the construction of the Lake Worth inlet.  It was named Peanut Island because there were plans to ship peanut oil from the Island. In 1930 congress authorized the building of a Coast Guard Station on the island.  The station officially opened in 1936 and subsequently closed in 
Peanut Island
Coast Guard Station
Entrance to
Presidential Bunker
1995. In 1961 a secret bunker was built to provide a shelter and command post for President John F Kennedy who frequently vacationed in Palm Beach with his family during the winter months.  We anchored off Peanut Island when we crossed over to the Bahamas in 2001.  At the time we had four of our six children with us (see the "Memories" post).  We did not go ashore because the island was still off limits. In 2003 the US Army Corp of Engineers had all nonnative vegetation removed and created a 30 acre wildlife habitat.  Then in 2005 the island was opened to the public as an eco-adventure county park.  There is no charge to visit the park, unless you want to tour the Coast Guard Station or Presidential Bunker.  

Peanut Island Lagoon
While we were there we hiked its 
Peanut Island Park
1.25 miles of trails; enjoying the lagoon with its diverse wildlife and colorful fish.  The Coast Guard Station was interesting with it many artifacts. The bunker on the other hand was built to be used by the President, his family and staff members in the event of a Cuban launched nuclear missile.  It could house up to thirty individual and contained enough food and water to sustain life for 30 days.  It was built in two weeks by Navy Seabees out of corrugated metal, lead and 12 feet of earth (cost: top secret).  The bunker itself is accessed through a steel reinforced door, then down a long metal tunnel.  At the end of the tunnel to the right is a generator of electricity and to the left is the decontamination room.

Presidential Bunker's Main Living Area

To access the living area you have to pass through the decontamination room.  The main living area has beds, chairs, food, water storage, restrooms and a desk for the President. Yet the bunker for the time period is very primitive. For example, there was no running water, sinks or flush toilets.  We felt fortunate that we were not required to live there, underground, for thirty days.  The bunker is 1500 square feet, and we thought "Little Lara" was small.  President Kennedy was never known to have used the facility, as it became obsolete with the end of the Cuban Missile Crisis.

President Kennedy's Desk and Chair
 
Until next time, fair winds

Monday, November 14, 2016

On the Water Again

Indiantown Marina

After visiting with our children and grandchildren in Utah and Idaho we flew to West Palm Beach, rented a car, and drove to Indiantown where we had left Little Lara during hurricane season.  As we drove up she looked pretty good, a little dirty but we were relieved to find no damage from hurricane Matthew.  Opening her up was another story.  There was mildew on every surface despite the "Damp Rid" we placed throughout the boat.  It took us several days of cleaning with vinegar and Lysol to get "Little Lara" back to normal.  The other disappointment was the varnish on the exterior teak had cracked and peeled at every joint.  So we spent several days sanding and varnishing. Now "Little Lara" is ready for another cruising season!

Little Lara on the Hard

We have to count our blessings...the little issues we have been working on these past few days have all been annoyances.  Our boat is sound, all the electrical systems are working well, the engine and the outboard motor are humming without a hiccup.

Little Lara going back into the water

The travel lift put her back in the water and it sure felt good to see her back in her natural environment.  We motored down the waterway to Stuart, enjoying beautiful weather the entire way.  

Mooring Field, Sunset Bay Marina

Folks at Sunset Bay Marina tell us that ever since hurricane Matthew came through the area, the weather has been absolutely beautiful.  So here we sit wearing shorts and T shirts, in 70 - 80 degree temperatures!  Jay is disappointed, however, because while we have been working on boat projects there was perfect crossing weather to Bahamas.  This week the weather window is closing and stormy weather, with north winds is in the forecast.  Perhaps it is time to head south for the Florida Keys instead.  We will see. Until then,

Fair Winds

Little Lara on a mooring ball
at Sunset Marina

Sunday, September 25, 2016

Saying Goodbye is Hard to Do





Missionaries serving at Wyoming Mormon Trail Mission
This past week we left Wyoming.  Our six month mission in the Wyoming Trail Mission is over and we have been officially released.  We made many friends while we served there: adults, youth and missionaries.  We will miss them all, but we know we will see them again someday.  Other special friends we made while serving on our mission are those friendship we will always carry in our hearts. We have grown to love them over these past months.  We know we will have to wait until the next life to meet them, but we remain friends none-the-less. People like:

Niels Anderson, 41, a sturdy farmer from Denmark, traveling in 1856 with his wife, Mette, age 49, and his 14 yr. old daughter, Anna. Niels had shown himself to be one of the strongest and bravest in the entire Willie Company. In October he began to be affected by dysentery which was becoming increasingly common among the company. By October 23 Niels was so affected by this that his wife had to pull the cart by herself. Niels struggled to make the ascent over Rocky Ridge on his own and finally was carried by Levi Savage in one of the sick wagons. He passed away sometime that night after arriving in Rock Creek Hollow.

Image result for jens and elsie nielsonElizabeth Bailey, 50, was traveling with her husband, John, age 51, their daughter, Mary Elizabeth, 17, Sarah Steed, 20, and Ellen Jones, 6 (it was common for non-related friends to travel together and for families who couldn't afford to emigrate to send their children ahead with friends or family members). The extreme weather and lack of food was too much for Elizabeth, and she died after her ascent over Rocky Ridge. She is buried at Rock Creek Hollow. Her husband, John, was so severely frostbitten that he could not walk and was carried by his daughter, Mary Elizabeth, until he, too, succumbed and died just a few days before entering the Salt Lake Valley. Sarah Steed's uncle, Thomas Steed, was one of the rescuers sent from Salt Lake. Mary Elizabeth eventually married Thomas and they had one son. Mary died at age 38 while Thomas was away serving a mission in New Zealand.

Image result for "samuel gadd" elizabethSamuel Gadd, 11,  was traveling with his father, Samuel 41, his mother Eliza 40, and his siblings: Alfred 18, Jane 16, William 12, Mary Ann 7, Sarah 5, and twin baby brothers Isaac and Daniel 16 mos. Although Samuel's father was a member of the Church, his mother was not baptized at the time they crossed the plains with the Willie Company. She wanted the family to remain together and so followed along with her husband's plan to immigrate to America to be with the Saints. The journey was difficult for everyone, and the Gadd family was no exception. One of the twins, little Daniel, died just before the family reached Ft. Laramie. Samuel's dad contracted pneumonia while performing guard duty in Iowa City and had never recovered. The combined strain of carrying many women and children across the icy rivers, standing guard during freezing nights, insufficient food, and extreme weather conditions proved too much, and Samuel Sr. died 5 days after little Daniel. After the forced march up and over Rocky Ridge, Samuel Jr. joined his father and younger brother in death. His mother said, “Of all her children, Samuel was the most anxious to reach Zion, but it was not to be.” After burying her husband and 2 children on the freezing plains of Wyoming, Eliza and the remaining children arrived in Salt Lake November 9th. One week later, Eliza was baptized a member of the Church. One of her descendants later wrote of Eliza: “She had proved herself a faithful Latter-day Saint and had earned the love and respect of the entire community.” Thousands of the Gadd posterity bless the names of these faithful ancestors for their fortitude amidst severe trials.

Image result for jens and elsie nielsonJames Gibb, 67, and his wife Mary were some of the first to join the Church in their native Edinburgh, Scotland. James was a sailor, and he and Mary were anxious to come to Zion first to prepare a way to bring the rest of their family later. John Chislett, a fellow traveler, shared this account: The day we crossed Rocky Ridge it was snowing a little—the wind hard from the north-west—and blowing so keenly that it almost pierced us through. We had to wrap ourselves closely in blankets, quilts, or whatever else we could get, to keep from freezing…The ascent of the ridge commenced…and I had not gone far up it before I overtook a cart that the folks could not pull through the snow, here about knee deep. I helped them along, and we soon overtook another. By all hands getting to one cart we could travel; so we moved one of the carts a few rods, and then went back and brought up the other. After moving in this way for a while, we overtook other carts at different points of the hill, until we had six carts, not one of which could be moved by the parties owning it. I put our collective strength to three carts at a time, took them a short distance, and then brought up the other three. James and Mary were some of the oldest members of the Willie Company, and the extreme hardships of the journey took their toll. The ascent up Rocky Ridge was more than James' weakened body could take. He died and was buried at Rock Creek Hollow on Mary's 53rd birthday.

Image result for jens and elsie nielsonChesterton John Gillman, 76, a sailor and coal miner, and his wife, Mary Ann Goodrum, joined the Church against the wishes of their 11 children. Mary died in 1854, and Chesterton determined to go forward alone with their plans to join the Saints in Utah. The journey and privations that ensued were difficult for all the handcart company members, but were especially hard on the very old and the very young. As one of the very oldest of the Willie Company, Chesterton faced a challenging journey under the best of circumstances. With reduced rations and insufficient clothing to protect him from the raging elements, Chesterton's determination brought him up and over Rocky Ridge and into Rock Creek Hollow. The snow was more than a foot deep, a blizzard raged, and temperatures were below freezing. The forced march took some of the company 27 hours, and many left a trail of bloody footprints in the snow. There his exhausted body could go no further, and he died and was buried at the Hollow. “One of Chesterton's sons joined the Church and emigrated to Utah in 1859, his wife and child following in 1860. Perhaps if Chesterton had not been so determined in the first place, none of his posterity would have chosen to follow his dream of reaching his “Zion” in the Rocky Mountains of Utah.”

Image result for jens and elsie nielsonThomas Girdlestone, 62, a father of 11 children was the overseer of a large farm in Northern England. He and his wife, Mary (59), were traveling to Utah with their daughter Emma, 21. Thomas made the arduous ascent up Rocky Ridge and into Rock Creek Hollow, but the effort under such extreme conditions was more than his aged body could take. Thomas died the next day after helping dig the common grave for 13 who had succumbed the day before. Five days later, Thomas' wife died and was buried near the Green River. Emma, the lone surviving member of their traveling family, entered the Valley on November 9, 1856. She eventually had 10 children and lived to be 79 years old.


William Groves, 22, was a young man traveling to Zion alone, though not without many friends and fellow travelers in the Willie Company. Young men such as William were depended upon by others in the company who needed their strength. They often helped carry others across icy rivers and assisted the companies in many ways. “After food supplies were exhausted and the tortuous trek over Rocky Ridge and to Rock Creek completed, many more pioneers died. William was exhausted himself, but continued to help as he assisted in digging the large common grave at Rock Creek. His youthful strength was finally spent and he died the next day.

Image result for james kirkwoodJames Kirkwood, 11, and his family joined the Church in their native Scotland and made plans to immigrate to Utah to be with the Saints. His father and sister died in 1852, but his mother Margaret and three brothers (Robert 21, Thomas 19, and Joseph 5) worked hard to fulfill their dream of coming to Zion. They sold many precious possessions to finance their journey. Thomas' legs had been injured as a boy and had never healed properly. Unable to walk, the family knew he would have to be pulled in the cart with their few belongings and meager food rations. Robert helped his mother with the heavy load, and James was given charge of making sure little Joseph kept up with the family. By the time the company reached Rocky Ridge, young Joseph's feet had been frozen and he was unable to walk. There was no room for him in the cart, so James carried him the tortuous 15 mile forced march—sometimes putting him down when his arms were weary, but always picking him back up without complaint. Early in the hours of October 24, 1856, James finally arrived at camp with his little brother and found his mother and brothers waiting up for them with a welcome fire burning. The excursion was too much for James' starving, weakened body. He carefully lowered Joseph into his mother's care, sat down by her and quietly died. Young Joseph, his remaining brothers and their mother survived the grueling ordeal.

William James, 46, and Jane James and their 8 children (Sarah 19, Emma Jane 16, Reuben 13, Mary Ann 11, Martha 9, George 6, John Parley 4, and Jane 8 months) left their home in England to come join the Saints in Zion. William worked as a farm laborer in his homeland but suffered from rheumatism and was not robust. The journey to Utah brought challenges to the family from the beginning. Baby Jane died while crossing the ocean and was buried at sea. Supplies were not ready as expected when they reached America and precious time was spent making carts and tents for the large Willie Company. Early winter storms and lack of food took its deadly toll. As the Willie Company began its daunting ascent up Rocky Ridge, William and Reuben stayed behind to help bury those who had died during the night. Finally they began their ascent. William collapsed and urged his wife to go with the others and he would come as soon as he was rested. Jane left Reuben with William and went ahead with the other children. But William's strength had entirely left him. John Chislett, a subcaptain, came upon William and tried to lift him up and help him along. But John hadn't enough strength to carry the older man, so he wrapped him in another quilt and told Reuben to stay by his father and John would send someone back to bring them in. Reuben was to “walk up and down by his father, and on no account to sit down, or he would be frozen to death.” When Chislett arrived in camp around 11 p.m. and reported William and Reuben's situation, boys from the Valley got a wagon and went back for them. “They found the little fellow keeping faithful watch over his father, who lay sleeping in my quilt just as I left him. They lifted him into a wagon, still alive, but in a sort of stupor. He died before morning”. Reuben was severely frostbitten but survived the rest of the journey as did his remaining family.

Ole Madsen, 41, was a Danish convert who came with his family and traveled with the Willie Company to join the Saints in Zion: Ole 41, Ane 44, Johanna Marie 15, Christene 13, Anna Marie 10, and Anders 5. He and Ane left several other children from Ane's first marriage in Denmark. Ole was a strong farmer and laborer and did much to lighten the loads of others along the journey. He also learned to hunt buffalo. Ole's strength and fortitude left him after the tortuous ascent of Rocky Ridge and on into Rock Creek Hollow, and he died after arriving there.


Image result for bodil mortensenBodil Mortensen, 9, joined the Church in her native Denmark with her parents and siblings. Her older sister, Anne Margrette, had gathered to Utah previously, and her parents were sending their children to Zion as they had money available. Niels Mortensen, a weaver, could not afford to bring his family all at once. It was Bodil's turn in 1856, and her parents sent her to travel with their friends, Jens and Else Nielsen. One of Bodil's responsibilities was to help take care of Niels Nielsen, the 5-year-old son of her traveling companions. As the Nielsen family began the arduous ascent up and over Rocky Ridge, Jens became unable to walk any further. Jens was a tall man and Elsie was a small woman, but she would not leave her dear husband on the side. Instead, she packed him on the cart and pulled him into camp. This left Bodil and young Niels to struggle along as best they could. Many families were separated that day as they journeyed through the blinding snow and freezing temperatures. Upon arriving in camp, Bodil delivered her young charge to his parents and then went off to find firewood. After gathering an armful of sagebrush, she leaned up against one of the wheels and closed her eyes to rest. She was found the next morning frozen to death and was buried near her young friend Niels who had also died during the night. Bodil's parents and two other siblings left early in 1857 to travel to Zion before they could be notified of Bodil's death. They arrived in late fall hoping to find Bodil and Anne together in Utah, but were deeply saddened by the news of Bodil's passing. Her mother never recovered from her grief and died just a few years later in Parawan where the family had settled. Her father continued his weaving trade and was known for his charity and concern for others.

Image result for jens and elsie nielsonElla Nielson, 22, called “Hellie,” began her journey from Denmark to Zion with her grandparents, but they both died early on (possibly on the ship), and so she continued traveling with her friends, Ole and Ella Wicklund and their children. On October 16, Sister Wicklund gave birth to a baby boy. This was just three days before the Willie Company was hit by their first winter storm and was almost entirely out of food. Hellie had been sharing her meager rations with Sister Wicklund to help give her strength for childbirth and had surely spent countless hours helping the new mother, new baby and other children, ages 8, 6, 3, and 1. The ascent up Rocky Ridge in a state of starvation and exhaustion, coupled with the extreme exposure to the merciless elements, took its final toll on Ella. Without strength to continue, she was left on the side of the trail wrapped in a buffalo robe. Brother Wicklund returned later and carried her back to camp. His 8 year-old-daughter Christina slept next to her for the rest of the night in an attempt to keep her warm, but to no avail. When morning came, Hellie was dead. Her hair had become encased in ice and had to be chopped free before she could be buried. The Wicklunds and their 5 children survived the remaining difficult journey and safely arrived in Utah November 9.

Image result for jens and elsie nielsonNiels Nielson, 5, was the young son of Jens and Elsie Nielson. He and his parents were traveling to Zion with their friend Bodil Mortensen and about 160 other individuals from Denmark.  His father, Jens, was a wealthy man and had shared freely of his abundance with others on their journey. Jens “could have obtained wagons, horses, stacks of food and other supplies and traveled west in style and comfort and early enough to beat the winter. He gained the great victory over selfishness by parting with his life's savings and demonstrated his unyielding faith so that those Saints who had nothing might at least have a handcart.” Once in Iowa, Jens kept only enough money to purchase a cart and to stock it with 15 pounds of belongings per person. Then he gave the rest of his money to the Church. Little Niels, Bodil, Elsie, and Jens continued their journey west with the Willie Company. The 15 pounds of belongings Jens kept for his family was insufficient to counter the lack of rations and early winter storms that set in mercilessly. Rocky Ridge and its tortuous ascent took its final toll. Jens' feet froze and he could not walk. Exhausted, he stopped and told his wife to go on. Refusing to give up or give in, Elsie (a very small woman) put Jens (a very large man) on the cart and pulled him into camp.

Image result for jens and elsie nielsonAne Olsen, 46, and her 12-year-old son, Lorenzo, were part of the large group of Danish Saints who traveled with the Willie Company. At least two other families traveling with them came from their little branch in Denmark: Nils and Mette Anderson and their daughter Anna, and Ole and Anna Madsen and their four children. Arriving in a new land, surrounded by customs and language so foreign to all they knew, the immigrants who did not speak English faced unique challenges in addition to the privations and severe weather that beleaguered the entire company. But Ane gave freely of her substance to those around her, whether they shared her native land and language or not. Company leaders appealed for monetary help for the poor, and at least twice aboard the ship records indicate that Ane answered their request just as she had answered the prophet's call to come to Zion, living the Lord's injunction that “whether by mine own voice or by the voice of my servants, it is the same.” Ane's journey did not end in the Valley as she and Lorenzo had planned. Unable to withstand the terrible tribulations that had come with exhausted provisions and severe weather, Ane died after the terrible ascent over Rocky Ridge and into Rock Creek Hollow and was buried there. Lorenzo was left an orphan.

Image result for jens and elsie nielsonLars Gudman Wandelin, 60,  was from Gelle, Sweden, and was a talented watchmaker. One of the few cherished possessions Lars kept with him was a silver watch. Records do not indicate that he was traveling with any close family members, but other families from Sweden came with the Willie Company, and surely he had friends among the large group. Unable to continue after the tremendously difficult ascent up Rocky Ridge and into Rock Creek Hollow—a journey made with empty stomachs and insufficient clothing to be protected from the raging elements—many of the Willie Company were at death's door. Lars could not go on, and as he lay dying, he made clear that he did not want to be buried with his treasured silver watch. Instead, Lars donated that beautiful time piece to the Perpetual Emigration Fund so that others who had not money of their own could come to Zion. Lars died on October 24, 1856, and was buried at Rock Creek Hollow.


Lest We Forget



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